Region / Country: Norfolk, England

Contact: Shirley Healas

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Overview

Shernborne has always been of great interest to me as the “Pitcher”‘s in my family tree, (on my mother’s side), all came from that part of north Norfolk (along with Ingoldisthorpe and Docking, which will be two separate studies).

Between 1579 and 1935, in the region of 130 Pitcher babies were baptised in Shernborne church, and sadly many were laid to rest there in the churchyard. (Note: Between 1837 and 1930, and in the census records between 1851 and 1901, Shernborne was in the Docking registration district for the civil registration of births, marriages and deaths.)

I visited Shernborne in September 2024, walking the two miles plus from Ingoldisthorpe, (as Shernborne is so small as to have no bus service). The Norfolk lanes exceeded my expectations, being so devoid of traffic and noise, just birdsong, and farmland on each side, evoking images of my grandfather and great grandfather out in those same fields pitching the hay onto carts. The area is full of natural beauty, and I loved it.

From my research, I don’t believe that Shernborne ever had a very large population, but today Shernborne is definitely a “blink and you miss it” kind of place, with just a few old cottages, the church, the vicarage, the old school (now a private dwelling), and the building that was previously the Bull Inn, still remaining.

After walking past Shernborne Hall, (which I discuss later in this report), I came to a crossroads. On one side was the old school.  On the other side of the road there was the church. Opposite that, the village sign was almost hidden, looking rather faded and forlorn poking upwards out of the hedgerow.  (If you zoom in on the photo by clicking on it, you can more clearly see the figures depicted on it.)

 

Shernborne Village Sign
Shernborne Village Sign (member's own photograph)

Then down a tiny dusty lane I found what remains of some of the 18th century farm labourers’ cottages, four of which are now combined into one large property. The owners very kindly showed me around inside and I could clearly see the thick walls and where each individual cottage began and finished. The old wash house was also still there, where the copper would have been for the women in the households to do their laundry. And the outside privy (which all households would have shared) was also still there!
So as far as I could discover, Shernborne now consists of just a handful of buildings. There is no public house, and no shop. But the church is absolutely beautiful in its simplicity!

Geography
Shernborne Map
Picture Credit: By Amitchell25-Ownwork,CCBY-SA

Shernborne is a very small village in a deep valley in north-west Norfolk. It’s approximately eleven miles north-east of Kings Lynn, three miles East of Snettisham, and 3 miles NE of Dersingham, and is close to the coast and the Wash, being only six miles from Hunstanton. It’s also part of the Royal Sandringham Estate, (the royal residence being just up the road from the village).

Shernborne is in the “Smithdon Hundred”, which was a collection of parishes around Hunstanton.

“Between the 10th and 19th centuries, the Hundreds of Norfolk were administrative units. Each Hundred had a separate council that met each month to rule on local, judicial, and taxation matters.” Source: Wikipedia

The name “Smithdon” derives from the administrative division of a much larger region dating back to before Norman times, and the boundaries described in the Domesday survey (1086) remained largely unchanged until the 1970’s.

Shernborne parish covers approximately 1220 acres of land, (or just 2.17 square miles),  mostly farmland. The Coldham family own one large farm in the parish, and the other belongs to Emmanuel College, Cambridge. (More about that later when I discuss Shernborne Hall.)

The name “Shernborne” seems to originate from the Old English word for “a muddy stream” or “dung stream”. The source of the river Ingol is in Shernborne (to the west).  It’s a chalk stream and probably was originally just a “muddy little stream”.  It then runs (for about 6 miles) through Ingoldisthorpe, and the mouth of the river emerges into the Wash by the Snettisham RSPB reserve. 

The village sign is wooden and rustic, but in an old article about East Anglia from 2014, I found a photograph taken just before the start of the Second World War, depicting the highly  ornate and colourful sign that it once was. It depicts a historic Lord of the Manor, Sir Thomas de Shernborne. He was Chamberlain to Margaret of Anjou. On the sign, he sits on his horse, wearing his suit of armour, and looks as if he is riding off into battle. Behind him you can see a lady, presumably his wife, Johanna, who seems to be praying. They lived in the Manor, which was occupied by the family for six centuries before the time of Cromwell. The manor house site is still very much in evidence today, situated to the west of the village. It’s now occupied by a farmhouse, “Shernborne Hall”. (See later notes)

Sir Thomas Shernborne and his wife are also depicted in the church on a large brass plaque in the chancel on the north wall. It dates back to the 15th century. 

Population

In the 1841 census, the population of Shernborne was 137, mostly farm workers, servants etc. This figure seems to stay reasonably constant through to the turn of the century. Then in the 1911 census, only 21 people are recorded as actually living in Shernborne. And in 2001, only 59 people (in 24 households). Source: Wikipedia

According to the most recent census, (2021), the residents of Shernborne (of which there aren’t many) are now mostly professional people, or with skilled trades, (unlike in years gone by when it was an area needing many agricultural labourers, and servants for the Manor.) 65% of working people in Shernborne were in full-time employment in 2021, and most of the rest were part-time workers, as there is a very low rate of unemployment in this area apparently. So the area’s economy has changed over the years from being generally quite a poor farming area to a much more affluent area where most residents are now home owners.

In the 1939 register, there were no people at all recorded as living in Shernborne or indeed the nearby Ingoldisthorpe. I mention Ingoldisthorpe here because Shernborne is now included in the civil parish of Ingoldisthorpe. So was everyone registered as living in Docking? (I will be checking this in my later research).

History

In the Domesday Book, i.e. in 1086, there were 64 households in Shernborne. And it would seem (from later archaeological evidence) that there had already been an established settlement there, and agriculture, for quite some time. Archaeological investigations suggest that this site has been occupied since Mesolithic (8000 BC to 2700 BC or Middle Stone Age) and Neolithic (late stone age) times. Ref Britannica.

For example, in the northeast of Shernborne, a stone macehead (from Mesolithic times) was found in a field; as well as 3 flint (Neolithic) axeheads.

And in a field to the east of the village, aerial photography identified three possible Bronze Age barrows, which are not visible on the ground today. Many Bronze Age (i.e. dating from 3300 BC to 1200 BC) objects have been unearthed in this parish, e.g. copper alloy axeheads, and copper alloy spearheads.

Early Iron Age (1200 BC to 600 BC) to Roman (55 BC to 409 AD) field boundaries have been identified, as well as a possible Roundhouse (same dates); and a Roman mosaic and a possible temple, both dating from 43 AD to 409 AD.

There have also been a few Iron Age finds, e.g. pottery fragments, some decorative binding, and also a mysterious object shaped like a moustache. (The use this object was put to is still unknown.) Also found here has been a hoard of 173 Iron-Age coins, made in France (I believe) in the 1st century BC.

In 1990, some metal detectorists also found here some Middle Saxon and Early Saxon (i.e. from the 5th to 11th centuries) artefacts, including brooches.

From the Roman era, finds include Roman coins, brooches, pottery fragments, tile fragments (found 1974), a bracelet, and a harness fitting. On the ground, you can see no evidence of Roman occupation, but aerial photography (1950’s and later) shows cropmarks and enclosures and ditches, and a possible Roman villa or religious site is visible.

There was also possibly a Saxon church in the parish, (as described in some 19th century documentary sources), but there is no trace of it today. However, there have been many Saxon finds here, (all unearthed in the north of the parish), including brooches, a highly decorated copper alloy strap end, pottery fragments, and a coin.

So by the time of the Norman Conquest in 1066, Shernborne was quite a well established settlement. After this, the Lord of the Manor at Shenborne (Edwyn I believe), was thrown out of his lands, so that William the Conqueror could reward his followers and family with land and estates. Shernborne was then divided into several parcels of land (“tenures”) and Lordships.

The Domesday Book (1086) details the settlement at Shernborne at that time. There were 64 households, so at that point in history, this tiny parish was in the largest 20% of all settlements recorded in the Domesday Book!

There were 5 landowners there in 1086:

Shernborne Doomsday Entry
Shernborne Doomsday Entry

In the 13th century, the Sharnborne family were still prominent in the area. Sir Adam de Sharnborne was knighted for his actions in the Holy Land under Richard 1 in the Crusades, and his son Andrew also went to the Holy Land, and died in 1249 and is buried inside Shernborne church, in front of the altar.

I was interested to find out if Shernborne residents were badly affected by the Black Death, as over 57,000 people died of the plague in Norfolk in 1349, and Kings Lynn was turned into a ghost town by it, losing half of the population. Two thirds of the population of Great Yarmouth died and other Norfolk coastal towns were badly affected, but I can find no mention of Shernborne specifically, apart from finding a vague mention somewhere that a member of the Sharnborne family died from the plague and was buried in front of the south door of the old church.

Sir Thomas de Shernborne died circa 1458, leaving his son John Sharnborne as his heir. John married Anne, co-heiress of Joan and John Curzon of Billingford, and he died in 1487.

Their descendants farmed here until the 17th century after the death of Francis Shernborne, the last of this family to own the manor and lands, and to bear the name of Shernbourn. The Manor was then sold to a London merchant, who in 1654 gave the lordship to Emmanuel College, Cambridge. (Shernborne Hall and the farm now occupy the site.)

Point of interest: In 1592, a gentleman of Shernborne with the wonderful name of “Lancelot Smalepeace” died, and his probate inventory can be found at the Norfolk Record Office. I haven’t managed as yet to find out anything more about this individual.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, life was tough in Norfolk. In 1767, with the Enclosures Act, the lands and pasture ground, half year enclosures, common fields, and common or heath ground, in the parish were divided, and only 14 acres of Shernborne land was allotted for the use of the poor of the parish, for fuel or allotments. So families in Shernborne who may have made a living from a smallholding, or from “strip farming”, with the Enclosures Act they found life suddenly changing. The poor lost their rights to gather wood to burn, or to graze a cow or other livestock on land that had previously been available to them to use.

In 1796, two-thirds of the land in Norfolk was used for arable farming, most of which was owned by wealthy landowners, and the general population had no choice but to work as agricultural labourers or servants for the landowners. Shernborne was no exception.

Local people were often only paid for actual days worked (for example, at harvest time), so it became more and more difficult for the ordinary people of the parish to survive. Indeed, I have found some of my own ancestors in the workhouse.

On the subject of the poor of the parish, after 1834, Shernborne became part of the Docking Union, with the local workhouse being at Docking.
From the late 18th century, there was a “rural exodus”, with people all across the country leaving their homes in the countryside to find work in the growing towns (or to go overseas). Poor wages, and access to land for grazing livestock etc being denied to them or greatly limited, led country folk to look for a better life elsewhere. I don’t believe that Shernborne farm labourers would have been any different.

I am also carrying out a “Pitcher” One-Name study, and am in the process of identifying where the Shernborne , (and Ingoldisthorpe and Docking), Pitcher’s moved to.

For example: In the 1901 census, Charles Pitcher and his family had left Shernborne for Leicester; Jarvis Pitcher and family had moved to London.
In the 1911 census, I identified that Robert Pitcher and his family moved from Shernborne to Grimsby, presumably because of the fishing industry. Philip Pitcher, born 1866 in Shernborne, had moved to Sheffield and was working in steel manufacturing.

I have also found some of my younger female (Norfolk) Pitcher ancestors in service in larger towns or cities, having been sent away to work as servants, often at only 15 years of age. The families desperately needed some form of income from them.

Returning to the archaeology of the Shernborne area, between 1790 and 1800, the mosaic pavement was found here, which, on further investigation in the 20th century, was identified as being part of a Roman villa (from aerial photographs).

The War Years: I can find no records of bombs landing in Shernborne, even though many bombs fell on nearby Kings Lynn. But there was a lot of activity in the general area, with approximately 50,000 U.S. Air Force personnel on 18 air bases in Norfolk. There was a heavy bomber base at Shipdham, and RAF Docking was just down the road. So Shernborne would have seen many planes flying across as Norfolk was at the forefront of Britain’s aerial militia.

Sherborne Brass Plaque (Member's own photograph)
Sherborne Brass Plaque (Member’s own photograph)

And the Roll of Honour for Shernborne is heartbreaking. There is a brass plaque in the church dedicated to two young “Pitcher” brothers from Shernborne. I had found out their story whilst carrying out research for my family tree and it was wonderful to actually see the plaque in situ and to be able to take the photograph below. It’s hanging on the wall next to the font. These two young men, Robert and Charles, had left their families in Shernborne to join the 15th Norfolk regiment and to fight for their country. Tragically, Robert and Charles both died on the same day at the Battle of Gaza on the 19th April 1917. Charles is commemorated on the Jerusalem memorial in Israel. Robert is buried in the Gaza war cemetery, Israel. (I’m not sure if Charles is also buried there.)

There is also a brass plaque by the lectern in the church, dedicated to Frank Lewis, born in Shernborne, who enlisted in the 9th Battalion Rifle Brigade and died, aged 33, on the 26th March 1917, and is buried in France. © Roll-of-Honour.com

(Point of interest: In the 1950’s, at the start of the Cold War, Royal Observer Corps Monitoring Posts (ROC Posts) were built all around East Anglia, and one of these was built two miles up the road from Shernborne at Dersingham. They were underground structures with a deep access shaft, a monitoring room, toilet, and their purpose was to monitor the nuclear threat/ fallout etc. and they were operated by volunteers until 1991 when they were closed down; but some, like the one at Dersingham, are well preserved and maintained and open to the public on certain days.)

Shernborne Hall

Shernborne Hall is what remains of a much larger Elizabethan house, and this is possibly also the site of an old medieval manor, (1066 AD to 1539 AD). The parts of the moat that remain, and the fish ponds, obviously predate the Hall.  Finds here include medieval coins, pottery fragments, keys, a seal matrix, and an inscribed seal (found in 1754). (Ref: Aldridge, 2007)

This building is set on the parish boundary between Ingoldisthorpe and Shernborne, the boundary actually cutting through the site. It’s now a working farm, and the current Hall itself is just one wing of a large post-medieval/Elizabethan house here (1540 ad to 1900 AD). The south gable wall of the farmhouse has polygonal turrets, windows on three levels (the original windows being replaced in the 19th century). The East wall has a large external stack, the original base now hidden by later works. There is a new conservatory on the west wall, but on the upper floor traces can be seen of two large windows that were in-filled.

Worship

Shernborne Parish Church

Shernborne Church (member's own photo)
Shernborne Church (member’s own photo)

This beautiful church, dedicated to Saint Peter and Saint Paul, is believed to be the second Christian church founded in East Anglia by Saint Felix from Burgundy. He came across to England (circa 640 A.D.) to convert the Anglo-Saxons, and built his first church where he first set foot on English soil, at Babingley. It is believed that a “wolf king”, (such as the one said to possibly be buried at Sutton Hoo), by the name of Sigerberht, invited Felix to come over to England, to East Anglia, to spread the Christian gospel.

Shernborne is believed to be the site of his second church; i.e. a late Saxon church (851 A.D. to 1065 A.D.) once existed on this site. Old sources refer to a “Stock Chapel” here, which means “a wooden church”. 

In the 11th to 13th centuries it was rebuilt in stone, and was a fine example of a Norman church, but by 1898, it had fallen into disrepair. The chancel was in ruins and the south aisle had gone. An architect was appointed, Herbert Green,  and the Prince of Wales at the time, (the late Edward VII), paid for the work to be carried out, (around £2000), gave the oak pulpit (still there) as a gift, as well as paying for two other churches  to be restored in the area around the Sandringham estate. He wanted to improve the local villages, and Edward really did a lot to improve this area, which was one of the poorest in England in the late 19th century.  

The builders, when they could, used a lot of the old church stonework, which can still be noted if you look at the base of the south aisle arcade and part of the arches above.

The nave windows are simple coloured glass, but in the 1920’s, a new stained glass window was installed on the east side of the church, above the altar, depicting Peter and Paul, the patrons of the church (and Jesus as the Good Shepherd).

The wonderful Norman font, (one of the four finest fonts in England it is said), survives from the earlier church building and is still in the church today, elaborately, intricately, carved with plaited knotwork, interlaced, faces and figures. Each side of the font depicts an elaborate lion mask along with other carvings.

Shernborne Font (member's own photograph)
Shernborne Font (member’s own photograph)

I have found in the region of 136 baptism records for Pitcher babies baptised in this church, and therefore this font, in the period from 1579 to 1935, so it was wonderful to actually see it.  I find it incredible that it was carved nearly a thousand years ago.  

Sadly, the average congregation today is only about 4 people! (Ref: Northern Vicar) But I found some very old Pitcher graves in the churchyard, which was great.

The vicarage still exists in the village, the current vicar being, I believe, Reverend William Leech. In the King’s Book, the vicarage was valued at £8. In 1831 it was valued at £69.

Community Life

The Bull Inn, Shernborne:

Shernborne, The Bull Photo(c) Richard Humphrey(cc-by-sa/2.0)
Shernborne, The Bull Photo(c) Richard Humphrey(cc-by-sa/2.0)

As previously mentioned, there is no public house in the village today. But at least one Pitcher relative of mine once lived and worked in “The Bull Inn, Shernborne” .

From at least 1790, it was a working drinking establishment. In 1847, the then innkeeper, was William Cater, (innkeeper there from 1846 to 1871). He also sold provisions there to the local population. At one point, he was found guilty at Snettisham Petty Sessions Court, of having deficient weights and measures! He was fined 5 shillings.

The old Bull Inn is just down the road from the church, next to the village hall. In 1907 the Lynn Advertiser reported that the King had given the hall to the village as a gift, to be used as a Clubhouse, and the Bell landlady, Mrs Jane Hooks, was appointed caretaker. C. R. Bullard, of Shernborne Hall, was appointed Honorary Secretary.

The club cannot be found listed in the licence registers of 1925 or 1949, but it was listed as a members only club in 1987, and was later closed by the Sandringham Estate, I believe. 

Institutions

The Old School, Shernborne:

It was actually quite late before the children of Shernborne parish had their own school. In rural Norfolk (as elsewhere), there wouldn’t have been many schools in the 18th century. For village children, there was little chance of an education. (It was mainly the preserve of the rich.) Village children had to work. Their families needed the income that children could bring in to the household, even at quite a young age. 

Costing £800 to build in 1876, Shernborne village school would have been a single room school attached to a teacher’s house. It was built of brick and carrstone (a type of sandstone).

School attendance was voluntary until the Education Act of 1880, so whether a child attended school on a daily basis could depend on the time of year (i.e. dependent on the need for labour, maybe in the fields at harvest-time, or at home), the weather, and even whether the teacher was generally liked or not!

In 1891, schooling became compulsory for all children but free. The school day was from 9 a.m till 5 p.m., and on top of that, rural children often had to walk for quite a distance to get to school, maybe up to three miles, and that would have been after they had completed their morning chores at home, such as feeding livestock, or milking a cow, or bringing in water or firewood. So it was quite a hard life back then for rural children, such as my ancestors in Shernborne.

There were only 41 children attending this school at one point, and the average attendance was only 29.

Children would have been taught reading and arithmetic mainly, and good penmanship, so the three R’s. They wouldn’t have had books (or hardly any) and possibly not much paper available either, so learning was by rote chanting and memorisation and reciting. They may have had slate boards, on which to do arithmetic problems. And there would have been a strong emphasis on good behaviour and discipline. Children would be punished if they misbehaved or broke the rules.

The school closed in 1961.

Migration and Immigration

Norfolk, especially settlements nearer the coast, such as Shernborne, would have seen significant migration levels over the years, from the Romans, to the Vikings, and then in the later part of the Middle Ages, quite a large number of Dutch and Flemish migrants. Norfolk is only divided from the Netherlands by a narrow expanse of water. So it would only have been a day’s sail even back then.

I have found that some of my Pitcher ancestors emigrated to the British colonies (Australia, New Zealand, Canada). Individuals (“of good moral character”) could qualify for a free passage if they were under forty and able to work, especially agricultural labourers and servants. From June 1835 to July 1836, 3068 individuals from Norfolk had their passage paid for (by the government) and emigrated, because there was a great demand for labour in the new colonies.

Families & Notable People

Andrew de Sharnborne (born 1328), was only eighteen years old when, during the Hundred Years War, he fought at the battle of Crecy (1346). He was later killed while fighting at the Siege of Rennes and is buried in Shernborne church.

Henry de Sharnborne was knighted by Henry VIII. He became Vice Admiral of England, and was killed in a sea fight with the French.

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